Wapta Traverse

This north-to-south traverse of the Wapta Icefield is a classic route of the Canadian Rockies — committing, wild, and achingly beautiful — offering a high-alpine journey through one of North America's most accessible glacier networks. The hut network makes this a civilized tour on which you can carry a relatively amenable pack - something of a rarity on North American ski traverses. If the huts are fully booked, and you take the camping option, expect to carry an eye-watering amount of gear and food. 

For those staying in huts, booking an extra night in some or all of them is a great way to add some day tours to this itinerary, and remind yourself how pleasurable touring can be with a day pack! The huts are booked through the Alpine Club of Canada, and if they're full, don't count on being able to squeeze in. If you aren't booked into the hut, then you'll need to find alternative dates or take a tent.

The Wapta Traverse begins at the north end of Peyto Lake - in summer, it's a shimmering turquoise basin just off the Icefields Parkway, but in winter, it's a frozen, tundra-like expanse. From the parking lot, the route descends steeply through forest to reach the outflow of Peyto Lake, this section often requiring skis on packs or careful "manoeuvring" (if you know, you know) through dense trees. Once on the frozen lake surface, the journey begins in earnest, crossing its length before ascending through rolling moraines (including a section of bootpacking) and onto the Peyto Glacier via a barren section of slightly descending moraine.

Gaining the glacier requires care: this section is often crevassed, especially early or late in the season, and roped travel is advised. Once on the glacier proper, a long, steady climb leads up to the edge of the Wapta Icefield, where expansive views open up and the terrain becomes more forgiving. The Peyto Hut, perched on a rocky outcrop to the west, is the first major waypoint, marking the transition from a steep approach to the broad, glaciated plateau that defines the traverse.

From here, the route travels south across the Wapta Icefield, weaving between peaks such as Mounts Thompson and Habel. Navigation can be tricky in poor visibility, with subtle terrain features and hidden crevasses requiring caution. The terrain undulates gently for much of the traverse, with occasional steeper sections as you drop into and climb out of shallow glacier bowls. The travel is mostly mellow, but the sense of exposure and remoteness is ever-present.

The next stop is the Bow Hut, but its relative proximity to the Peyto Hut means that some teams skip it and proceed straight to the Balfour Hut. Regardless of which option you choose, the St. Nicholas–Olive col needs to be crossed, and it's a defining feature that signals the approach to the central section of the route. This col is often wind-scoured and may require boot-packing or side-stepping depending on conditions. Once over the col, the route swings eastward briefly before descending onto the fun and open Vulture Glacier and reaching the Balfour Hut, another critical waypoint nestled beneath its eponymous peak.

The next segment leads toward the Balfour High Col, the crux of the route and its highest point. This section requires careful assessment of avalanche conditions, as it involves steeper slopes and potential overhead hazard from some pretty chunky seracs. The Balfour Glacier is heavily crevassed in places, and route-finding through the seracs below Mount Balfour can be complex. Efficient travel and sensible route finding are essential here.

Once over the high col, the descent to the Scott Duncan Hut offers a relief in gradient and a dramatic shift in landscape, with views extending toward the Yoho Valley. The descent down to the Scott Duncan is great fun and you eat up the distance quickly. 

The final leg of the traverse climbs up to the col immediately east of Mount Niles. From there, either drop straight into the valley below or, if you want to avoid the overhead avalanche hazard that option can entail, hold your height and swing around beneath Mount Niles into the valley due south of it. Both options meet just north of Sherbrooke Lake, which should be frozen anytime the Wapta ski traverse is possible. Cross the lake - as tedious as it sounds, but at least the scenery is good - and then descend/climb/traverse/bushwhack down to the parking lot, just steps from the Trans Canada Highway.