Central Gully

Central Gully is a classic steep snow and ice line in Huntington Ravine on Mount Washington, above Pinkham Notch near Twin Mountain. It’s primarily an alpine snow/ice climb that some parties also ski in firm, stable conditions. Expect sustained, high‑consequence terrain with an ice bulge roughly one‑third up from the bottom that can form a short, steep step requiring either a controlled air or a rappel depending on how fat the ice is.

From the Pinkham Notch Visitor Center, follow the Tuckerman Ravine Trail to the signed Huntington Ravine Fire Road. Take this to Harvard Cabin, then continue into the ravine and up the open fan. The line is the prominent central gully in the headwall; trending slightly skier’s right on the fan gives a few islands of safety on the way in. The route finishes onto the Alpine Garden, where winds can strip snow and leave rock and ice near the top-out.

This is full avalanche terrain with frequent skier‑triggered slides reported in the fan and below the central ice bulge. Wind loading from recent storms rapidly changes conditions; watch for fresh slabs, shooting cracks, and hollow drifts, and treat the fan as a big terrain trap. Helmets, crampons, axe, and solid self‑arrest skills are standard; many parties carry a short rope and screws for the bulge when it’s lean.

Check the Mount Washington Avalanche Center forecast and recent observations before committing, and be ready to bail if loading or visibility deteriorate. Standard descents are downclimbing the line in firm conditions or exiting via the Alpine Garden toward Lion Head or the Escape Hatch; skiing the gully is for confident steep‑ski parties only. More info and current bulletins: Mount Washington Avalanche Center.