Damnation Gully

Damnation Gully is a steep snow and ice line on the north side of Huntington Ravine, Mount Washington, cutting a long, obvious couloir up the headwall. In winter it forms as a mostly snow-filled gully with multiple waterfall ice bulges and short vertical steps, typically climbed in several pitches of alpine ice and firm snow up to around 60° on a south to southeast-facing slope.

From Pinkham Notch Visitor Center, skin or hike up the Tuckerman Ravine Trail, then branch right on Raymond Path and left onto the Huntington Ravine Fire Road to reach the Fan at the base of the ravine. From the Fan, trend up and right across the snow apron toward the second major gully from climber’s right; Damnation is the long, deeply incised line just left of North Gully and right of Damnation Buttress.

For climbing, expect several pitches of steep snow with short ice bulges and occasional fixed belays along the left wall; parties usually build their own anchors in rock or ice. For ski mountaineering, the line is considered advanced and very serious, with very steep snow, frequent ice bulges that often require rappels, and a narrow lower choke. It is only skied in rare, filled-in conditions by expert teams with full mountaineering kits.

The gully is a classic avalanche path that is commonly cross-loaded by west to northwest winds; even on days rated Low danger, small slabs have produced long, high-consequence rides. Overhead hazard from other parties, falling ice, and rock is constant. Several serious incidents here have involved slow parties benighted on the route or at the rim in deteriorating weather, so start early, move efficiently, and have a clear plan to top out and navigate the Alpine Garden to established descent routes in daylight.

Land manager is the White Mountain National Forest; check current avalanche forecasts from the Mount Washington Avalanche Center and any seasonal closures or advisories before committing to the line. More info: Mount Washington Avalanche Center.