Odell’s Gully

Odell’s Gully is a classic moderate ice and snow line in Huntington Ravine on the east side of Mount Washington, just left of Pinnacle Buttress. The route starts as a broad snow gully, then breaks into several ice variations before easing again into snow slopes that top out near the Alpine Garden and the junction with the Alpine Garden Trail.

Approach from Pinkham Notch via the Tuckerman Ravine Trail, then branch onto the Huntington Ravine Trail and continue into the floor of the ravine. From the fan, Odell’s is the obvious right-hand depression between South Gully and Pinnacle; climb straight into the main gully from the snow cone. Most parties descend by traversing south across the Alpine Garden toward Lion Head, or more directly by dropping the Escape Hatch back into the ravine if visibility and conditions are solid.

Expect generally moderate ice pitches with easier snow in between; a small rack of ice screws is standard. Overhead, a large low-angle snowfield feeds directly into the line, making Odell’s notably exposed to avalanche hazard and wind slab. Multiple serious accidents and fatalities have occurred here from both avalanches and sliding falls, including incidents where climbers were swept from the route or unable to self-arrest on hard, icy snow. Careful assessment of the daily avalanche forecast and surface conditions from the Mount Washington Avalanche Center is essential before committing to the gully.

For current avalanche and snowpack information, consult the Mount Washington Avalanche Center forecast before your trip: Mount Washington Avalanche Center.