Avalanche North Glacier

Glaciated north-facing terrain on the Avalanche–Macdonald side of Rogers Pass, usually reached via the Macdonald West Shoulder / NRC approach from the Connaught Creek side. From the shoulder you trend north and then east toward the NRC Col, dropping into the broad but exposed basin that feeds the Avalanche North Glacier.

Expect broken glacier with crevasses that are often more manageable mid-season but can open fast after heat or wind events. The lower roll steepens and can show blue ice or thinly bridged sections, so parties often probe carefully or belay short sections rather than committing everyone at once.

Overhead hazard is real: cornices along the NRC Col and flanking ridges, plus several “don’t fall here” traverses where a slip would funnel you into crevasse fields or over steeper ice. Standard glacier kit, tight rope discipline, and conservative spacing are mandatory; most teams give this line a miss in poor visibility, during active loading, or when cornices are sagging.

You are inside Glacier National Park, under Parks Canada permits, seasonal closures, and avalanche-control restrictions. Check current winter permit system maps, area closures, and artillery control work before leaving the lot, and plan a conservative turnaround so you are clear of start zones before afternoon warming.