Smart Col North

Smart Col North is a serious glaciated ski mountaineering line used as an escape option on the Bonney Traverse. From the Bonney Névé, trend north toward the obvious low point between Mount Smart and the outlier to its north; access from the glacier is generally straightforward in good visibility but requires weaving around crevasse fields and assessing overhead cornices on the col itself.

The north side drops immediately from just below the col down a steep, exposed face onto the Smart Creek glacier. Expect complex terrain: corniced ridgeline, bergschrunds right under the roll, open and bridged crevasses, and potential patches of exposed ice late in the season. This is not a place to discover weak partners or shaky ski crampon skills—full glacier kit, solid crevasse rescue systems, and conservative group management are mandatory.

Below the headwall the line runs fall-line down the glacier, then through large lateral and terminal moraines into Smart Creek. The ski quality can be excellent in settled powder, but quickly turns to survival skiing in wind-jacked snow or spring crusts. Once in the valley, the egress down Smart Creek is long and tedious, with sections of dense forest, sidehilling, and creek crossings that can turn into a full mid-day suffer-fest, especially in isothermal snow.

Exit options are either out via the Ross Peak designated access route (DAR) corridor or by contouring the north side of Smart Minor to reach the railway corridor. Both options involve steep forested slopes, avalanche paths that run to valley bottom, and awkward navigation around the creek and rail line—plan extra time and daylight. This entire zone lies within the Rogers Pass Winter Permit System; you must hold a valid West Rogers (and general Glacier National Park) winter permit, check daily area openings, and carry the required ID and park pass before leaving the highway corridor. See Parks Canada’s Rogers Pass winter permit page for current rules and maps: Parks Canada – Rogers Pass Winter Permits.