Ursus Major North Face

Big, glaciated north face on Ursus Major in Glacier National Park, fully alpine and exposed. The line drops into complex cliffy terrain with limited safe islands, so route-finding and group spacing matter once you roll over the face. Expect overhead hazard from rock bands and hanging features above the main fall-line.

Access is typically from the Rogers Pass side via the Connaught Creek drainage, using established ski touring approaches in the Ursus / Bruins / Video Peak zone to gain the upper glacier benches before committing to the north face. You’ll cross mellow-looking but crevassed glacier sections; standard glacier kit and travel protocols are mandatory even in mid-winter.

The face is shaded and cold, holding winter snow well but also catching wind loading from prevailing southwest flow, so watch for stiff wind slabs near the roll and cross-loaded features around ribs and rock bands. Overhead cornices and the terrain trap of the lower fan and gullies make conservative timing and strong stability non‑negotiable.