North Face of Monte Perdido

The classic North Face of Monte Perdido. A spectacular ascent that has it all in moderate mountaineering. June 6-7. Total about 21km, 2450m elevation gain. -Approach the day before (not on the track): 7km, 1300m elevation gain. About 3h30-4h. From the Pradera de Pineta car park, a giant wall with dozens of waterfalls blocks our path: the Circo de Pineta. The path climbs progressively until it's a non-stop gain in elevation. There is a marked path at all times. In the final part there is the "funnel", which can be somewhat exposed if there is snow. In our case there wasn't any. We arrive at the Balcón de Pineta and the bivouac area. Some people choose to continue to the Tucarroya free refuge (+2km and 150m elevation gain). -2nd day: 13km, 1100m elevation gain and 2365m elevation loss. About 12h. Ascent: Due to the time of year, we wake up very early, at 4am. Highly recommended. We face the first couloir at dawn, and we rope up short. 45-50º slope, hard snow, a delightful warm-up. Then we traverse the glacier with a magnificent atmosphere. We overcome the bergschrund just below the large characteristic rock face, where it is not very well formed at this point. We face the slope that precedes the second couloir. This section is perhaps the most delicate: the slope is steep, about 50º, there is exposure, and some stones may fall from the top (not very common). Luckily, the ice axes and crampons bite perfectly. The slope remains or even increases to 55º until reaching the 2nd couloir. We set up a belay from the beginning. 1st pitch, icy snow (50-55º); 2nd pitch, a 4-meter ice bulge (65º) that justifies the two ice screws we brought, awesome. Once overcome, you can continue along the snow ramp (50º). In our case, after about 30m, we set up a good belay on the rock face on the left. 3rd pitch, we progress along this spur with moves of III grade for 10 meters, to return immediately to the gully, where the slope begins to ease. We don't finish the pitch and decide to continue in a simul-climbing, and soon we find ourselves on the shoulder of Monte Perdido. Last 10 minutes to savor the entire ascent... and summit! Descent: Through the Escupidera (Spit), and then climb up a slope of about 45º to the Collado del Cilindro (Cylinder Pass). Without lingering too much, we begin to descend. There is a lot of snow in this area, and it is very soft. We are grateful not to be stepping on it two hours later. Following the tracks takes us to a small gully that can be descended directly earlier in the season. In our case, it is already a torrent that requires a 10m rappel (we find a sling and maillon installed). We pick up the tent and retrace the path of ascent, which logically becomes a leg-breaker.