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Bugs to Rogers
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Bugs to Rogers
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Bugaboos to Rogers Pass ROUTE
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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Serac Fall Zone
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Fall zone
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Serac Fall Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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Serac
Seracs could fall off and trigger an avalanche in the start zone below.
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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Lake
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Lake
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Start
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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Distance/Time
Distances from last rappel to Glacier Circle Cabin: Distance: 2.48km Elv: 176m, -548m Time Approx: 1.5-2hr Get to Glacier circle cabin around 1500-1600
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Distance/Time
Distance from Glacier Circle Cabin till the end of the traverse! Distance: 16.3km Elv: 953m, -1531 Time Approx: 8-12hrs
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Break Point #1
First safe break spot from galcier circle cabin. We take rest hear eat and drink. Stats from Glacier circle cabin: Distance: 2.88km Elv: 684m Time Approx: 2.5-3hr
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Break Point #2
Stats from break #1 ro Break #2 Distance: 3.82hrs Elv: 258m , -149m Time Approx: 1hr
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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serac
Big overhead seracs above the rappels.
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI PAth
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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Glacier
We are now stepping onto the glacier. Rope up
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Glacier
We are now entering glacier terrain. Rope up.
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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First Rappel Station
UTM: 11U 0473899 5667305 Approach the Deville Headwall along the eastern side of the glacier. To find the first station, follow the natural terrain depression along the edge of the glacier, following the line between the ice and rock working west towards the centre of the headwall. The first station is located on a rock outcrop nearest to the ice. All stations have yellow reflective markers. There is one cairn marking the start of the route. The first station is on the rock outcrop immediately below the cairn, and is made visible with a reflective orange marker. Rappel One: 25m, 2 bolt station Rappel 25m down the gully, wrapping slightly climbers left to small exposed rock below a bulging buttress (orange marker). It is possible to climb back up from this point. We anticipate the rappels will take long as the rappel stations will be difficult to find depending on snow levels. We should be at the first rappel station at first light. the rappeling could atke up to 4-5 hours. Sunrise will be around 0600 so we should be done all the rappels latest 1200.
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Second Rappel Station
Rappel Two: 30m, 4 bolt station Rappel fall line 30m down the skiers right (west) side of the rock outcrop that you are standing on. The next station is located below the vertical seam in a small rock corner. This pitch is vertical, committing, and the next station will be at the end of your rope. Standard safety precautions are essential.
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Third Rappel Station
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Transition DWN
Stats from Break #2 Distance: 2.54km Elv: 34m, -113m Time Approx: 45m
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End
Stats from Transistion DWN: Distance: 7.17km Elv: -1303 Time Approx: ??? Unknown what travel will be like, ski conditions, crevase exposure.
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Transition UP?
Depending on snow conditons and slope.
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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Glacier Circle Cabin
Coordinates 51.1725, -117.3931
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Distance Alt Route
Exiting throught the beaver valley after rappelling the deville. Doable in 1 day but most likely if we were to take this option it's a 2 day mission, slow travel, low energy. Distance: 26.98 Elv: -1,262m, 418m
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Path
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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Distance Alt Route
This route is acceptable if avalanche condtions allow, half the distance as the normal route, meaning steeper uptrack. Distance, 2.99km Elv: 801m, -4.77
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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Distance ALT Route
Distance: 25.4km Elv: 1790m, -3026
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Path
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AVI Path
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Zone
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Distance Alt Route
Constance Exposure to avalnche in this valley. Distance: 11.8km Elv: 224m,-1691m
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AVI STArt Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Path
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AVI Path
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AVI Path
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AVI Path
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Zone
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Distance Alt Route
Distance: 17.5km Elv: 1518m,-1518m
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Distance Alt Route
Distance: 13.5km Elv: 1528m, -1328m
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Path
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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Distance Aly Route
Distance: 5.1km Elv: 445m,-1251
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI PAth
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AVI Path
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI PAth
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI path
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AVI Path
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AVI path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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Distance ALT Route
Distance: 9.38km Elv: 456m, -1629m
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Distance ALT Route
Distance: 8.44km Elv: 1310m, -226m
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Path
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AVI Path
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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Mount Macoun Option / Glacier Circle
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Malachite / Carbonate Bypass
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Jungen, Sproul and Walsh - Syphax West Face Option
Gnarly and Full-on. 50 degree couloir with cornice. West Face traverse is unsupproted and steep above large cliffs.
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Syncline Pass Bypass
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Snowman / Syncline Bypass
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Climax / Hume Option
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Arrowhead Heli-run
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Malloy Igloo
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David East Col Option
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Crystalline Pass Option
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David / Cony Col Option
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Silent ridge Option
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McMurdo Option I
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Spilly Bypass
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McMurdo Exit
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Grand Glacier Escape
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Beaver Overlook
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Original Route Beaver / Polaris Col
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Beaver Valley Slog
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Glacier Circle Exit
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Bishops / Lily Col Option
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Connector
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Flat Creek Exit Option
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Youngs Peak Traverse Option
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Donkin Pass Option
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Geike Glacier Option APPROXIMATE ONLY
This route is APPROXIMATE ONLY. Difficult crevasse sections but it does work.
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Selwyn Ledges
Important Note: Selwyn Ledges is an historical route, but has changed with glacial recession. It currently offers a probable simpler, albeit, not necessarily safer route to access or egress the Deville Icefield. Historically speaking, it has been done at times with a snowpack (spring) and without (spring/summer/fall). If there is sufficient snowpack depth, then it can likely be fairly straightforward, but without a sufficient snowpack, there may be ice and rock present. Selwyn Ledges has recently been used for access and egress of the Deville Icefield instead of the historical Deville Chimney or Deville Headwall Rappels. The author personally knows two parties that have ascended it in spring and one party that descended in spring. The ascent parties had no difficulty and were able to bootpack up the slope. The descent party did one lower off an ice anchor until it was established that the line could be safely skied. No other difficulties were encountered. These two options are big time-savers in comparison to the other two routes on the headwall, especially the rappels as well as possibly needing less equipment (group size dependant). Note the high exposure to avalanches from Mount Fox. Be certain there is good snow stability and move fast!
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Climax Col / Hume Pass - Bypass
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AVI Path
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AVI Path
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Glacier
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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Crevasses
This area looks like its heavily Crevassed
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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AVI STart Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Start Zone
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AVI Path
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AVI Zone
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