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Waddington
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Waddington
70 public items in this list
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Potential Heli Pickup
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Base Camp Option 1
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Possible Heli Drop Point
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Plummer Hut
Time Started: 2026-02-16, 08:15:10 MST
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Base Camp Option 2
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Base Camp Option 3
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Bute Inlet
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Knight Inlet
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Traverse Camp 1
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Traverse Alt Camp 1
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Traverse Camp 2
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Traverse Alternate Camp 2
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Traverse Camp 3
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Traverse Alt Camp 3
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Traverse Alt Camp 3
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Traverse Camp 4
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Traverse Camp 5
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Traverse Camp 6
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Traverse Alt Camp 7 (big overhead...)
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Traverse Camp 7
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Traverse Camp 8?
Nicest spot, but close to previous camps... could be made to from camp 6 with big push
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Traverse Camp 9?
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Potential Heli Drop
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Whitesaddle Air base
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Major Crux - crossing below brig peak, see notes
2 teams (griff and crew, and one other team) have triggered sz 3s here. One was following big storm, one big spring iso following multiple hot days with no O/N recovery. scary place
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Old Logging camp
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Traverse Alt Camp 7
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Scar Creek Escape
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Mt Agur
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Mt Munday
Actual track from Griff Stever last season. Ascend N over broad glaciated slopes and climb a short steep pitch out of the basin S of the E and central peaks to reach the summit plateau. Ski W across the plateau and ascend the higher West summit on skis to a rounded false summit. The true summit lies across a short airy notch. It is only a metre higher but usually requires a rope to reach.
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Scar Creek Escape
Logging roads in Scar Cr provide an escape route frommany points on the upper Franklin Gl. When travelingdown the Franklin Gl, there are 2 main icefalls. A route canbe found through the middle of the upper icefall at 1900m.The lower icefall at 1600m is a wall of seracs that extendsacross the complete width of the glacier. It can be bypassedusing the glacier moat on the E side. If skiing down the Cor-ridor Gl towards the lower Franklin Gl, it is best to swingS across the Agur Gl to reach the lower Franklin Gl. Fromthe lower Franklin Gl, ascend the S fork of the Repose Gl toreach the 1870m pass at the head of Scar Cr. Steep slopes onthe E side of the pass can be avoided by swinging S onto theglacier. Descend into the open valley bottom at the headof Scar Cr and pick up an old logging road on the N sideof the creek opposite the Jambeau Gl. The road runs downthe N side of Scar Cr for 16km to the Homathko R valley.It has been used as a reasonably direct access and exit routeby various parties over the years. Though the road can stillbe walked, it has become fairly overgrown with alder and isonly recommended as an escape route.
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Base of Waddington Run
An ascent of the right-hand side of the Dias Gl to the base of the S face of Mt. Waddington is a tremendous trip. Though lacking an actual summit, the final destination is higher than most peaks in the Coast Mountains and offers a stunning panoramic view of Franklin Gl and the Whitemantle Range as well as a close-up look at the huge S face of Waddington. It also offers a superb 1000m run.
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Franklin Glacier Traverse pt 1
The recommended route climbs from roads on the S side of Coola Cr. Vehicle access to Coola Cr is currently washed out but the roads can be easily walked or skied to their end at 900m, approximately 1km E of Scar Mtn (and above the snout of the Waddington Gl). From the end of the road at about GR566753, angle SE to gain the forested E ridge of scar Mtn. Follow the ridge up and over the most open summit. The descent into the pass beyond is forested but the terrain quickly becomes subalpine as you move W. The lower Waddington Gl is fairly heavily crevassed, and the recommended route climbs open slopes S and W of Pivot Dome to gain the broad ridge S of the Waddington Gl. Continue up the ridge, bypassing Martello Mtn on its side. Cross the Bert Gl and regain the ridge crest at the broad 2600m shoulder SE of Mt Agur.Head N out onto the Waddington Gl and ascend to Mystery Pass(2760m) between Mt Agur and Mt Munday.
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Franklin Glacier Traverse pt 2
There are several superb side trips from Mystery Pass. Descend the gentle Ice Valley Gl past the striking SE side of Mt Waddington. Cross the col NE of Jester Mtnand descends broad slopes onto the flats of the Dais Gl. This is a recommended location for a camp, as there are many excellent side trips here. From the Dais Gl, ski across the main trunk of the Franklin Gl to the divide at the head of the Finality Gl overlooking the Hoodoo Gl. Swing S across the Hoodoo Gl and traverse onto the slopes S of the Barracuda Pks to descend onto the Confederation Gl.
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Franklin Glacier Traverse pt3
There are several superb side trips from Mystery Pass. Descend the gentle Ice Valley Gl past the striking SE side of Mt Waddington. Cross the col NE of Jester Mtnand descends broad slopes onto the flats of the Dais Gl. This is a recommended location for a camp, as there are many excellent side trips here. From the Dais Gl, ski across the main trunk of the Franklin Gl to the divide at the head of the Finality Gl overlooking the Hoodoo Gl. Swing S across the Hoodoo Gl and traverse onto the slopes S of the Barracuda Pks to descend onto the Confederation Gl.
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Regal Glacier
Alt Approach to Waddington NW. or as own objective to Top of Bodyguard Peak.
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Waddington NW Summit
Track From Griff. Description: The route avoids almost all climbing difficulties by ascending to the head of the Dias Gl on the SW side of the Waddington massif, crossing to the N side of the mountain and then ascending the long slanting Angel Gl, which plummets down the N flank of the NW peak. From a camp on the Dais Gl, ski up the far West side of the Dais Gl and traverse NE up into the basin at the head of the glacier. The key to the whole route is the Dias Couloir, which is the obvious W snow gully that climbs N from the head of the glacier at GR406942. Kick steps up the 40 degree gully for 200m to join the long NW ridge of Mt Waddington immediatyely E of Councillor Pk at 3320m. Continue E up the snowy section of the ridge on skis for about half a kilometre to a flat shoulder immediately W of the next steep section of the NW ridge. Skirt around the N side of the shoulder at about 3400m and cross a bergschrund to descend about 100m into the slanting basin of the Angel Gl. Switchback for 700m up the 30 degree glacier to the base of teh NW peak, staying well back from the huge ice cliffs that plummet from the N margin of the glacier. Cross the large bergschrund at the head of the glacier and climb easy snow slopes to the col immediately W of the NW peak. The final snow pyramid is a short snow climb. This a bold, challenging ski ascent that can only be attempted in good weather with stable avalanche conditions. It requires solid mountaineering and route finding skills. Difficulites are few in good conditions but depend on snow conditions in the couloir, the condition of the bergschrund that must be crossed to access the Angel Gl, snow bridges on the final bergschrund at the top of the Angel Gl and snow conditions on the summit knob. Experienced parties have completed the ascent in 10 hours return from a camp on the Dais Gl in good conditions, but some parties have taken twice as much time.
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Regal Dome
Regal Dome is the formal-sounding name for a minor subsidiary point about halfway up the ridge dividing the Regal and Dias Gls. This is a recommended ski ascent via W facing slopes that gives an enjoyable 600m run.
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Mt Chris Spencer
From a camp on the Dais Glacier ascend the Fury Gl N towards Fury Gap by avoiding a shattered icefall at 2300m on its E side. The summit pyramid is a short snow climb from the head of the Fury Gl via a snow gully adjacent to its SE ridge. The lower summit of Mt. Brokenhead is also sometimes climbed by ski parties
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Mt Brokenhead
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Franklin Glacier Traverse
Coastdown the Confederation Gl to its major junction at 1550m.Ascend the S branch of the Confederation Gl to the glaci-ated shoulder E of Jubilee Mtn.The exit to the Klinaklini Rvalley climbs over the shoulder of Jubilee Mtn.This sectionrequires reasonable visibility and is the crux of the traverse.Cross the N ridge of Jubilee Mtn via a 2480m notch in the ridge.From the flat shoulder N of the summit, descend the N margin of a steep icefall onto the upper Lemolo Gl. Turn S across the flats of the Lemolo Gl and ski through the 2300m pass that leads to the head of the Chasm Gl. From the southern rim of the Chasm Gl, swing around to an unnamed W-facing glacier. Descend this glacier for 400 m.To avoid being drawn into the narrow basin below, traverse SW across a minor ridge at 1710m and drop SW to pick up old logging roads below 1200m. These spurs are deactivated and growing with alder but can be walked 5km down to Devereaux Lk.
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Mt Squire
A fun ascent and has particularly fine ski slopes on its N side. The recommended route ascends to the col with Jester Mtn. To reach the summit on skis, circle around to its S side and ascend a short 40 degree slope. Alternatively, its E ridge is a quick snow climb from the col. The summit can also be approached by skiing up its long gentle W ridge.
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Combattant Couloir
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Finality Mountain
Difficulty: 2 Terrain: Challenging Easily ascended on skis from the Finality Gl and offers a commanding view of the entire region. This trip can be combined with an ascent of nearby Bezel Pk or one of the unnamed summits at the N end of the Portal Glacier.
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Bezel North Peak
Difficulty: 2 Terrain: Challenging Easily ascended from either Finality or Shelf Gls and offers some shorter ski slopes
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Waddington Whitemantle Traverse 3
From Griff Stever - trip done last year between Apr 25 - May 18
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Waddington Whitemantle Traverse
From Griff Stever - trip done last year between Apr 25 - May 18
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Waddington Whitemantle Traverse 2
From Griff Stever - trip done last year between Apr 25 - May 18
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Waddington Whitemantle Traverse 4
From Griff Stever - trip done last year between Apr 25 - May 18
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Waddington Whitemantle Traverse 5
From Griff Stever - trip done last year between Apr 25 - May 18
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Waddington Whitemantle Traverse 6
From Griff Stever - trip done last year between Apr 25 - May 18
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Waddington Whitemantle Traverse 7
From Griff Stever - trip done last year between Apr 25 - May 18
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Waddington Whitemantle Traverse 9
From Griff Stever - trip done last year between Apr 25 - May 18
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Waddington Whitemantle Traverse 10
From Griff Stever - trip done last year between Apr 25 - May 18
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Waddington Whitemantle Traverse 12
From Griff Stever - trip done last year between Apr 25 - May 18
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Waddington Whitemantle Traverse 14
From Griff Stever - trip done last year between Apr 25 - May 18
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Waddington Whitemantle Traverse 13
From Griff Stever - trip done last year between Apr 25 - May 18
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Theoretical exit... has been partially done once
Description from those who tried. As it turns out, an exit via the south side of Brew Creek is not recommended. Our first problem was that at the end of the big flat glacier was a short set of cliffs. Although we were able to ski around this first set, the box canyon with raging river just a few kilometres later proved to be a more formidable obstacle. Since it seemed that any route we'd choose might end up with a rappel or two we setup camp at the top, so that we might have daylight if we needed it. The next day dawned cold and raining - perfect conditions to begin a bushwhack. We traversed into an old avi path to the east of the canyon and attempted to ski then climb down it. Eventually, however, it became too steep and the slide alder too slippery - we feared that at least one of the four of us would almost certainly fall, and it seemed to only be getting steeper. But at least we had lost a lot of elevation. We traversed back across toward the canyon, where we were able to get the rest of the way down with only a few short rappels. It seems likely that there was a better way down in between the bluffs and the slide path, but if you take any advice it should be to find another drainage. Then began the long terrible process of bushwhacking out Brew Creek. We didn't make it to the start of the old logging road the first day, but we sure did burn a lot of fuel attempting to turn the tent into a sauna that night. We got it pretty warm, and the wet gear made it pretty humid, but somehow we still felt cold and wet. Over the next couple days we realized that we weren't going to make it out within the number of dinners we'd brought, and began to ration our food. The bushwhacking was fairly coastal, with progress reduced to 100m an hour in the worst slide patches. I read about a BCMC party who burned their skis rather than carry them out, and could really sympathize. Some of us took to the "throw and retrieve" method of carrying skis, which is vastly superior to strapping them to your pack once the bush gets sufficiently thick. Although we expected the bridge near the gravel flats to be washed out, we were disappointed to find out that we wouldn't be able to cross Brew Creek there - it was far too deep and swift, and too wide to bridge with deadfall. The only roads we knew of were on the other side, at least until after the next river canyon on the south side. We prepared to bushwhack along and see if we could cross the canyon - we'd lost radio communication after crossing Brig, so it seemed there was nothing else to do. Since the terrain near Brew Creek got too steep, and cliffed out directly into the river, we were forced to climb up again and bushwhack up and over a 45 degree sidehill covered in slide alder - the best kind. We spotted a black bear, and followed him for a bit since it was the only direction where travel was possible. Coming back down, right when we'd lost most of our hope, we fell onto a logging road. Logging road? We hadn't come across it in our research - but there it was. Almost simultaneously I made radio contact with the logging camp, and Madeleine reported that the logging road bridged the river canyon one switchback lower. Now travelling fairly fast we crossed the bridge, ate what little food we had left in celebration, and radioed the logging camp to let Chuck know that we'd be back some time that night. "Are you sure you don't want to get picked up by helicopter?" Chuck asked over the radio. "There's one in camp right now flying some engineers around in your area". Although we were sitting on what seemed to be an old helicopter landing pad we scoffed at the idea - the tough part was done. However, just 50 meters along the logging road later the whole slope was totally washed out - it was replaced by a giant 150 meter wide 50m deep swath of steep sand, interspersed with huge teetering boulders. A little disappointing, considering we'd just eaten the last scraps of food and it was getting late. We started to bushwhack up and around, reduced to our previous speed records. That helicopter was seeming more and more tempting... Standing in the middle of the steep forest, one hour before dark with nowhere to setup the tent and no food, we decided that maybe that helicopter wasn't such a bad idea after all. We bushwhacked back to the helicopter pad and made the call. The next morning we chopped down the alder which had grown on the pad, both to clear a place for the helicopter and as revenge for all those kilometres of bushwhacking. Steve even managed to chop down a 6" diameter conifer with the adze of his mountaineering axe.
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Alt Plummer Hut route
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Wadd circumski - Plummer to Cateract Col
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Waddington Circumski-Cateract Col - Schultz-Despair col
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SEE NOTES Wadd Circumski - Schultz-Despair Col Cateract Glacier Valley
Icefall at bottom may not go- can't find clear beta of anyone since Baldwin going here
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Wadd circumski - Cat valley to Radiant Gl - approx Baldwin Route
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Looks easier with current glacier condition
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Wadd Circumski - Baldwin Route to Fury Gap
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Mt Grenelle Bypass
https://4frnt.com/blogs/blog/the-wadd-a-trip-report The trickiest part through the ice fall was the first 600m of elevation gain off the Tiedmann Glacier where we threaded the needle through the ice fall to the easier upper glacier While gaining the upper glacier, they were still exposed to potentially very large ice fall from above. Although the chances were low that something would break, the consequences were very high if something moved. The crew had to motor up half of that 1520m of elevation with minimal breaks just to minimize the hazards. The final portion of the hike up allowed for the quad to breathe a little bit easier as the hazards were not as extreme. After a grueling hike up, the group had finally completed their mission. They experienced some of their best views of the trip and took it all in before they made their descent.
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Theoretical Angel Gl / Tiedemann route
(looks gnar, but I think somwhere around here has been done) Found this article: https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212158/Mt-Waddington-to-Mt-Asperity-high-peaks-solo-traverse-first-solo-ascents Connected 2012 down Wadd NW to the Tiedeman Glac.
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Carl's Couloir
Not 100% sure of location, but looks like a good line anyways. Same with the shorter line E of this, between Grand Cappucino & Phantom. ____ At 4:30pm I decided the southeast face of Asperity had been in the shade long enough to make rockfall unlikely, and I started down Carl’s Couloir. The descent down Carl’s Couloir was much easier and much less steep than I had expected – in fact it would make a great ski run, and not even qualify as “extreme skiing.” I made 3 rappels, all over bergshrunds, and reached the lower Tiedemann Glacier a bit before nightfall. https://colinhaley.com/another-post/
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Mt. Hickson N Face
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Camp 2 actual
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